Building a Reliable 2008-2015 Evolution X MR Part 2

So to continue where I left off, these are the parts mentioned in the previous post, and I explained in short why these parts were chosen.

Head:
Ferrea 6000 Intake Valves STD
Supertech Inconel Exhaust Valves STD
GSC Beehive Springs/Retainers
Driven Fabrications Billet Cam Gear Housing

Bottom End:
Manley H Beam Rods
ACL Standard Size Main and Rod Bearings
Cosworth Thurst Bearings
JE 86.5mm FSR Pistons

Misc:
OEM Full Gasket Kit
3 Dayco 1140A073 Metal Pulleys
Gates Belt K061033
Metal Spacer 17mmID 1.5mm Thickness
Misc. Valve Tappets Depending on clearance required.
Thermal Intake Manifold Gasket

Fuel:
ID1000 Injectors
Walbro 450 OEM wiring
Radium Fuel Rail
AEM Regulator
AMR Engineering Feed line w/ inline filter

Turbo:
GTX3576 sized turbo-We used our stock frame, and machined it with a larger billet compressor wheel, and turbine wheel
Turbosmart 22psi Internal Wastegate
Synapse DV Valve
Grimmspeed 3 Port Boost Solenoid

Quality Machine Work:
Head Resurfaced
Block Surfaced
Align-Honed
Rods Big/Small End Sized
Bore/Hone Block for 86.5mm Pistons
Block/Head Cleaning
Valves/Valvetrain Installtion

So with this combination of parts, only a few things are left to take care of, and I will keep this short. I replaced the stock oem cast exhaust manifold unit since it is know to crack with a equal length unit as well as the downpipe. The new tubular exhaust manifold as well as the turbo exhaust housing was ceramic coated to keep heat in check. I also chose to install a Speed Circuit large heatshield to help with my thermal management. The intake pipes were all replaced as well as the intercooler with a 3.5 inch thick unit. To make sure no bottle necks were left, I ditched the oem exhaust in favor of a T1R racing full 3″ catback exhaust matted inline with a high flow cat. This is the quietest full catback available for this chassis in my opinion, and it’s a quality piece. To make sure I will be able to get this thing dialed, I downloaded Evoscan, ECUflash, and purchased a Tactrix cable. If you plan to tune this car yourself, or have it tuned remotely, those 2 programs, and cable are required! To make tuning easier, I highly recommend purchasing the AEM Failsafe wideband gauge. This is a wideband gauge, and boost gauge in 1. On top of that it has a excellent failsafe feature. You can wire it so it can trigger another map to be used if your air fuel goes out of check, and with the timing retard of the stock ecu, makes for an excellent combination. So now you have something that is monitoring your air fuel, while the stock ecu monitors knock, and will retard timing if knock is present. With this setup tuned properly, it can provide a great amount of peace of mind. Alright, that is enough for today. Till next time! Will get into the final details of my build, building a reliable setup for myself, and for my company. I’m just like many of my clients, just want something reasonable for the street, and maximize the setup as best as possible.

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